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In principle, Hong Kong’s cuisine is Cantonese. But only in principle—few cities in Asia bring together as many culinary influences as this one. There are several reasons for this. First, its long history as a major port and former British colony attracted people—and their culinary traditions—from all corners of the world. Second, its status as a Special Administrative Region has (at least until now) granted it a degree of independence from mainland China, fueling an impressive economic boom.

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This, in turn, attracted numerous chefs from Asia, Europe, and the Americas, eager to delight Hong Kong’s affluent locals and expat community with their respective cuisines. As a result, whether you choose a Cantonese, Laotian, or Venezuelan restaurant, chances are you’ll enjoy an outstanding meal. “That’s certainly true, yet many Western visitors understandably want to experience the local or at least Chinese cuisine first,” says Vicky Cheng. A native Hong Konger, Cheng trained in the West, including several years under French chef Daniel Boulud in New York.

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When he returned to his hometown, he first cooked in French-influenced restaurants before opening VEA in 2014—another concept inspired by French cuisine. “My cooking is defined by French techniques and premium Chinese ingredients,” Cheng explains. “You can call it ‘fusion,’ but in reality, it’s simply the style that suits me, reflecting my personality and uniqueness.” This philosophy is evident in his dishes, such as what appears to be a classic French pâté en croûte—only with a filling of rehydrated dried abalone (a type of sea snail). Equally impressive is his crispy sea cucumber, which undergoes rehydration, cooking, and finally deep-frying to achieve its perfect texture.

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Both abalone and sea cucumber are among the so-called “four treasures of the sea,” prized in Cantonese cuisine for their flavor and unique texture. Another of the city’s specialties is dim sum—the bite-sized dumplings, now famous worldwide, that are either steamed or fried.

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The true superstar of Hong Kong’s culinary scene, however, is goose, which holds a similar status here as duck does in Beijing. The preferred preparation is siu ngo—seasoned, marinated, and roasted over an open fire. It’s a must-try dish for anyone visiting Hong Kong. 

Read more: Why Hong Kong is a paradise for foodies and night owls