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Puni: Alpine Whisky at Its Finest!

For ten years, ''Puni" whisky has been the fulfilled dream of the Ebensperger family. Meticulously designed down to the last detail, the distillery has become a landmark of the Vinschgau region. Even in Japan, the bottlings from Italy’s first whisky distillery are highly regarded.

January 29, 2025


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When the first whisky was bottled in Glurns in 2015, it even made headlines in the local Scottish newspaper in distant Rothes. That’s because the Ebensperger family had installed two custom-made pot stills from the local company A. Forsyth & Sons for their distillery, Puni. Considered the Rolls-Royce of whisky distillation equipment, these stills signaled from the very beginning the ambition to produce exceptional spirits in the Etschtal Valley.

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This was also tied to the history of the distillery, named after the local Punibach, a tributary of the Etsch River. While many of the new whisky distilleries that emerged in the Alpine region from the 1990s onward evolved from grain farms or fruit brandies, this wasn't the case with Puni. Instead, it was Albrecht Ebensperger’s passion that led to the creation of Italy’s first dedicated whisky distillery. A well-known builder in Northern Italy, recognized for his careful restorations, Ebensperger transitioned from whisky collector to producer just before his 60th birthday. Construction of the distillery began in 2010, distillation started two years later, and by 2015, the first bottles of Puni were filled into their distinctive packaging.

With the will to whisky

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Given the long preparation time, every detail of the company—now run by Tobias Ebensperger, the founder’s son—has been carefully considered. The logo, featuring three bars, represents the grains used in Glurns: rye, wheat, and, of course, barley. Even the distillery’s futuristic design is a tribute to a traditional Alpine element. The bricks, which were historically used in mountain farm buildings to allow air and light into cattle stalls, have been recreated in concrete here—5,500 times over!

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The cube, now a recognized landmark, is more than just a nod to Vinschgau architecture—it also embodies the aspirations of the distilling family. “Our approach to whisky is similar to the architecture of the distillery and the design of the bottle: simple, but not easy,” says Jonas Ebensperger. He adds, “With every edition, we strive to create something remarkable. That’s why we prioritize quality over quantity.”

Sophisticated and striking

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With a deliberately streamlined core range of three whiskies, the Ebensperger family caters to a variety of tastes. Vina, aged in Marsala casks, creates a connection to the fruits of southern Italy. Purists, on the other hand, will appreciate Gold, which, like most Scottish whisky, is matured in bourbon barrels. And as is common in Scotland, Glurns also offers a double cask edition. In addition to American oak barrels, Sole, the fruitiest expression, is aged in casks previously used for the sweetest type of sherry, Pedro Ximénez (PX). Even smokeheads have a Northern Italian option—part of the special ARTE-label series. Edition No. 5 was aged in Islay casks, bringing the signature peat smoke flavor into the Glurns malt.

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This distinction is well deserved. The rye—an ancient heirloom variety that thrives up to the cultivation boundary at over 1,500 meters—comes from the immediate surroundings, as does the wheat. All whiskies are brought to drinking strength using local mountain spring water. This commitment to quality and consistency in flavor profiles has fueled Puni’s steady growth over its first decade. What began with the production of just a few thousand bottles has evolved into whisky reserves “equivalent to several hundred thousand bottles.”

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But Jonas Ebensperger is proud of more than just the growing quantity of his Northern Italian malts. “Our whiskies are appreciated in many renowned bars and restaurants in Italy and beyond,” he says. One such place is Tokyo’s legendary bar Gen Yamamoto. There, the eponymous host crafts a meticulously curated cocktail sequence—designed like a fine dining menu—for just eight guests, incorporating Puni into his long drinks. Measured by this level of success, Puni’s journey from its first bottle to a globally respected whisky has been remarkably short. It took the pioneers of the Vinschgau Highlands just a decade to achieve it.

Web:puni.com

This article appeared in the Falstaff TRAVEL issue South Tyrol Special 2024.

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