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South Tyrol Special: Burgraviate

A sea of light pink spreads out in spring when the many apple trees in Burgraviato are in lush bloom. While nature unfolds its full splendour, in and around Merano it's all about enjoyment, culture and the perfect union of Alpine and Italian lifestyle.

26 June 2022


The ancient cultural landscape of Burggrafenamt is considered the birthplace of the historic Tyrol. It is famous not least for the fruit that is widespread here and the apple blossoms that cover the region with delicate white and light pink colours every spring. The area is also known for its abundant hours of sunshine. When the sun rises over the Texel Group in the morning, Mediterranean plants here soak up warm rays just like the visitors.

Probably the most magnificent Art Nouveau building in the Alpine region, the Kurhaus Meran (below), with its smoking and ladies' salon, was once a meeting place for well-heeled spa guests. Today it hosts concerts, conventions and balls. Formerly the residence of the Counts of Tyrol, Castle Tyrol (above) in Dorf Tirol today offers a varied historical tour from the Middle Ages to more recent times. ©IDM South Tyrol-Alto Adige/Angelika Schwarz/Frieder Blickle

No less a person than Elisabeth, Empress of Austria, made Merano a booming luxury spa resort through her visits. Some things still remind us of the glamour she brought with her - such as the Sissi Trail. It connects her first residence, Trauttmansdorff Castle, with the old town. Other regular guests were literary greats such as the author Franz Kafka, whom the city likes to commemorate with events.

Designed by South Tyrolean architecture star Matteo Thun, the Merano Thermal Baths (above) captivate with their light-flooded glass construction. The radon contained in the water clears the respiratory tract. Like an erratic block, the Timmelsjoch Pass Museum (left) rises from the North Tyrolean side to the South Tyrolean side, emphasizing its cross-border character. The "ice cave" inside pays tribute to the pioneers of the high alpine road. Not for those afraid of heights: From the Sonnenberg viewing platform (right) in Naturno, which is up to 50 meters high, you have a unique panoramic view - from the Merano valley basin to the mountains of the Ortler group. ©Luca Meneghel, IDM South Tyrol-Alto Adige/Damian Pertoll/Tina Sturzenegger

WINE AND WHALE PATHS

The pedestrian mile in the city centre offers many shopping opportunities. Here you can also buy last-minute hiking equipment. History resonates here, because people have been shopping in the arcades for 800 years. One can relax with a walk on the Passerpromenade as well as in the South Tyrolean architect Matteo Thun's designed thermal baths or in one of the botanical gardens. If you are looking for something more sporty, take the Merano High Altitude Trail, which runs through the Texel Group Nature Park and almost completely circles the mountain massif.

The stylish Adults-only boutique hotel "Villa Arnica" in Lana has a gorgeous pool and its own meditation house; in summer there are regular barbecues in the garden. ©Villa Arnica

Grandiose views of the Val Passiria and the Adige Valley are the reward after a strenuous hike. More leisurely are the Waal trails, which run along the former irrigation canals. Small wine villages such as Tisens, Tscherms and Prissian on the sun-drenched slopes of the Etschtal attract visitors with their charm.

This is what aperitif canapés look like at (five) toque level: At the "Castel Finedining" restaurant, chef Gerd Wieser delights with his creations. ©Annette Sandner

Wine enjoyment and culture have an important status here - those who feel like tasting the widest possible selection of fine South Tyrolean wines should not miss the Merano Wine Festival in November.

In the form of an arena, the buildings of Villa Verde in Algund enclose a park with natural swimming pond, outdoor pool and herb garden. The suites and apartments (with cooking facilities and private terrace or garden) have been furnished in soft tones. ©Villa Verde

Gourmet tips

GOURMET RESTAURANT 1897

In St. Martin in Passeier offers the "Quellenhof Luxury Resort"not only first-class medical treatments, but also the cuisine under the direction of Michael Mayr is top-notch. A classic on the menu are the beetroot ravioli with alpine cheese. quellenhof.it

RESTAURANT MIIL

The team of the Cermes restaurant bases its menu on the seasons. Here, almost exclusively regional and seasonal products, if possible in organic quality, go into the pot. The result: first-class creations that melt in your mouth. miil.it

SISSI RESTAURANT

In 2009, owner Andrea Fenoglio earned his first Michelin star - and has reconfirmed it every year since. A highlight in the Merano restaurant: the Settepiatti, a surprise menu with seven courses of avant-garde cuisine. sissi.andreafenoglio.com

GOURMET RESTAURANT LE CHEVAL

For three years, the four-star superior house Hirzer in Hafling has had its own restaurant. Chef Peter Oberrauch (favourite dish: Balfego tuna tartare) and his team have so far been rewarded with three toques. hotel-hirzer.com

MUCHELE

Honest, quality products from the surrounding area, sensuality in preparation and precision: these values are sacred to the chef. And so Patrick Holzner and his team create wonderful five-course dinners, vegan or gluten-free on request. muchele.com

Sweet treats: Culinary delights (in the picture a dessert with strawberries and hay milk) can be experienced in the restaurant "Castel Finedining" in Dorf Tirol. ©Annette Sandner

 

Shopping tips

Knitwear
Franziska Haller makes products from natural materials such as sheep's wool, felt and whale with a modern twist - including Sarner jackets, hats and pillowcases. From € 49,-. spinningwheel.it

©Benjamin Pfitscher

Barber products
Two friends have launched the first South Tyrolean brand for beard care. The Lananer rely on the moisturizing oil of mountain pine. Set from € 35, -. steve-phills.com

©Armin Terzer Photography

Timepiece
Patrick Laimer, a trained carpenter, brought together his passion for wood as a raw material and his enthusiasm for clocks - and developed the Laimer wooden clock. At € 139,-. laimer.bz

©Elsa Emotionshooting

Natural cosmetics
At Terme Merano, treatments are carried out using the spa's own beauty products. Apple and grape extracts are used, the hand cream nourishes with edelweiss essences. At € 18, -. termemerano.it

©Therme Merano

 

Hotel tips

Hotel Castel 

Double pleasure Guests of the Hotel Castel enjoy not only excellent cuisine, but also the best location above Merano. ©Michael Königshofer

Fine living and fine dining with a breathtaking view: since last year, the five-star Hotel Castel has been shining in new splendour after intensive renovation. The exclusive gourmet hotel - awarded two Michelin stars and five toques - is idyllically located amidst the vineyards in Dorf Tirol, with a fabulous view of the surrounding mountains. Lucullan pleasure is offered in the two restaurants "Castelfinedining" (formerly "Trenkerstube") and "ÀlaCarte", which also impress with excellent service and panoramic views of Merano. Sommelière Ivana Capraro charmingly takes care of the wine accompaniment - in the wine cellar of the house are numerous fine wines, the focus is on Italian vintners. The spa has also undergone a makeover and now attracts guests seeking relaxation as the "Meranesse SPA". Various saunas and baths, experience showers, Kneipp pools and relaxation areas (indoors and outdoors) as well as a Roman indoor pool and a heated outdoor pool await visitors. Another highlight are the new, light-flooded treatment rooms, where you can be pampered by the spa team - there are double cabins for couples. The rooms and suites score with a successful mix of soft colours, walnut wood and select vintage elements. Generous architecture and unobtrusive luxury round off the vacation experience. Falstaff readers can find out more at hotel-castel.com/falstaff300 Secure trial vouchers worth up to € 300!

Hotel Castel****
Keschtngasse 18, 39019 Dorf Tirol, Italy
Tel.: +39 0473 923693
Web: hotel-castel.com
Price: Double room including gourmet-HP from € 461,-.

 

HOTEL ANSITZ PLANTITSCHERHOF

Stylish mix The 50 rooms and suites of the "Ansitz Plantitscherhof" convince with natural elegance. ©www.guenterstandl.de, Armin Terzer Photography

An insider tip in Merano's villa district: space to browse, relax and enjoy. In the Hotel Ansitz Plantitscherhof guests can leave the worries of everyday life behind and consciously experience the here and now. The house is special not only because of its idyllic location - on the roof there are ten beehives that provide the honey for breakfast and on top of that produce the basis for the care products that are available in the rooms and in the "Golden Spa". The spacious garden with flowers, palm trees and shady trees is not only a paradise for the bees: Here, guests will find numerous retreats where they can fully enjoy their time out. On warm nights, residents of the open-air suite also enjoy an unforgettable experience sleeping under the stars. For adventurous travellers, however, the hotel offers a lot more: for example, an exclusive classic car rental service. With the PS-strong jewels - from the Ferrari to the VW Bulli - the environment and the picturesque South Tyrolean pass roads can be explored in style. Back at the hotel, another highlight awaits with the garden restaurant: fine wines and upscale cuisine are served in a relaxed atmosphere; weather permitting, the roof and panoramic fronts are opened and guests enjoy dinner in the middle of the wonderful garden. Those who prefer privacy reserve a table in the Restaurant zu Plantitz, the smallest restaurant in South Tyrol with its own wine cellar. 

Hotel Ansitz Plantitscherhof*****
Via Dante 56, 39012 Merano, Italy
Tel.: +39 0473 230577
Web: plantitscherhof.com
Price: double room incl. breakfast from € 160,- per person

 

CLASSIC HOTEL MERANERHOF

©Klaus Peterlin

Charming Art Nouveau jewel: romantic Belle Époque style paired with upscale luxury can be found in the Classic Hotel Meranerhof. In addition to its unique architecture, the four-star superior hotel is also known for the warm and courteous all-round service provided by its hosts. Spacious suites and rooms provide a cozy atmosphere in the heart of the spa town. Each of the rooms is unique; modern or classic design and interior meet selected, elegant details. From the windows, guests look out over either the mountains or the hotel's beautifully manicured garden. They can relax in the wellness area with a heated pool, in the beauty oasis, in the saunas or in the Kneipp pool. A small but well-equipped gym awaits sports enthusiasts. Chef Arno Fritz, who serves South Tyrolean cuisine with a Mediterranean influence, provides culinary delights. After the gourmet dinner, people meet at the house bar to enjoy a digestif, wine or cocktail - or stroll through the old town. The Passer River flows by directly in front of the house, and guests can stroll along the river to the nearby town centre and explore the numerous cafes and boutiques. For longer tours, an excursion on an e-bike is a good idea, which can be rented directly at the hotel. This also provides easy access to the vineyards and hiking trails in the surrounding area - ideal for a springtime getaway! 

Classic Hotel Meranerhof****S
A. Manzoni Street 1, 39012 Merano, Italy
Tel.: +39 0473 230230
Web: meranerhof.com
Price: Double room including half board from € 155,- per person

 

HOTEL SCHLOSSWIRT

©Anneliese Kompatscher

Traditional hotel with that certain something: the venerable and namesake Schenna Castle towering above, perched on the mountain, the Hotel Schlosswirt nestles into the hillside in the historic centre of Schenna, not far from Merano. What began as a Buschenschank, developed over the years through the leadership of the Prunner family into a traditional and modern four-star hotel. The hosts managed to combine the historic with modern touches, and in a very charming way. Twice a week, guests can enjoy yoga classes on the rooftop terrace, and the sunrise yoga here is particularly beautiful. The spa area offers a panoramic relaxation room and a distant sauna with a breathtaking view of Dorf Tirol. A bio sauna, a steam bath, the Hotspring pool in the garden and a new pool area round off the relaxation offer. The rooms, all named after nobles of the K.-u.-k. monarchy, have fantastic views over the surroundings and offer enough space to feel good and relax. The kitchen team around chef Mihaly "Mischi" Hugyik, who has been providing the delicacies in the Schlosswirt for over 28 years, spoils guests on a daily basis with excellent traditional cuisine. A highlight: the steak menu with meat from regional partner farms, paired with the ambience of the cozy panoramic terrace. 

Hotel Schlosswirt****
Schlossweg 2, 39017 Schenna, Italy
Tel.: +39 0473 945620
Web: castle-landlord.it
Price: double room including half board from € 120,- per person

Text: Marie-Theres Auer, Marion Genetti and Michaela Hessenberger

This article appeared in the Falstaff TRAVEL issue Spring 2022.

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