Niederkofler
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7 Questions for Norbert Niederkofler

Norbert Niederkofler is considered the best chef in the Alps. With the "Atelier Moessmer" in Bruneck, he has a new place to work - a good time to talk about South Tyrol and his cuisine.

September 9, 2023


© Alex Moling

Norbert Niederkofler is as busy as ever - nothing unusual for one of the best chefs in the world, but for the 61-year-old the reason is his new restaurant, the "Atelier Moessmer". But he is happy to take time for us.

You are the culinary leader of South Tyrol - what distinguishes the region and your cuisine for you?
Most of all the openness to the south, to a more Mediterranean way of life. This exudes a different flair than in Austria. South Tyrolean cuisine is rooted in Austro-Hungarian, but here the influence of the Mediterranean has been added. The way of cooking is just much lighter, looser, more approachable and more emphasized with herbs than normally in a mountain region.

What was it like in the past? What do you associate with the taste of your childhood?
Classic rustic dishes. The pudding in the pan, the Kasnocken with grey cheese, which were then placed on the table. The spirit of togetherness has left its mark on me: This table, this ambience, made me cook; when people sit together and talk. And the kitchen - the place of warmth, of coziness. I became a chef mainly for these reasons.

Niederkofler

The new restaurant "Atelier Moessmer Norbert Niederkofler" is located in the former villa of the Moessmer cloth factory. © Alex Moling

And one of the best! Is there a personal recipe for success?
There have been many personal recipes for success, but they have always been reset. My biggest dream was always New York. When I was 23, I was there for almost two years - and I felt like Alice in Wonderland. You had cuisines from all over the world, and that had an extreme impact on me. I learned a lot during that time.

Let's return to South Tyrol: Where does this extreme attachment of South Tyroleans to their country come from?
It comes from agriculture playing a very important role in South Tyrol. Tourism is relatively young in certain areas; farmers have always played the biggest and most important role, the vegetable and herb farmers, also the fruit growers - especially wine. Therefore, the connection has always been there.

Niederkofler

© Alex Moling

What must a South Tyrolean guest have tried culinary?
If you go in the direction of Merano, Bressanone, Bolzano, then everything around Törggelen. But there are also very, very good restaurants and excellent young chefs. In Brunico, for example, the "b.local"; in Bressanone, the "Brix 0.1"; and the "Miil" near Merano. There is also a lot of diversity: everyone interprets South Tyrol for themselves in this respect - which is very good.

Where would you ever move to if it wasn't South Tyrol?
I love Italy, we were recently in Salina, in the Aeolian Islands. I love Sardinia, I love Sicily, I like the whole boot. You have a completely new culture every 50 kilometers. That's what connects Italy to Asian cuisine for me: this variety of options that you have.

Which celebrity would you like to cook for one day?
We have cooked for pretty much everyone for the last 26 years. But I often much prefer simple people who enjoy things, who are curious, who are interested in what we do. But a Dalai Lama is always a topic for me, or people like Barack Obama who have really accomplished something. That's interesting - but as I said, it's the people who are important to me.

Read more: The Taste of South Tyrol: Enjoyment at the Summit

This article appeared in the Falstaff TRAVEL issue South Tyrol Special 2023.

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