It is rightly said in the wild south of Italy: "Vedi Neapoli e poi muori", in English: "See Naples and then die!" Of course, the proverb does not mean that visitors to the city on the Tyrrhenian Sea are in danger. Quite the contrary. Naples is so great that - as Goethe already agreed during his trip to Italy - you won't see anything better in life afterwards and can die with peace of mind. 

The Buon Consiglio Iglesia from Vomero: Naples is that charming. © Mathias Bach Laursen

Naples, the city of contrasts

Today, like never before, Naples presents itself as a city of contrasts. Enchanting culture and magnificent buildings stand door to door with inhabited neighborhoods. Deserted alleys are only a few meters away from noisy piazzas. On one side of the gulf, the three charming islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida stand out as idyllic places of longing in the azure Gulf of Naples, while wild life prevails in the city. 

Campania's center: Naples seen from Vomero. © Shutterstock

Sodom and Camorra?

Since "The Godfather" at the latest, one knows: Southern Italy not only stands for Dolce Vita, it is also the land of syndicates. In Campania, the Camorra - the Bella Società Riformata - pulls the strings; for tourists, however, this should not be a cause for concern, as there is no interest in scaring away this source of money. 

Basically, during the day you are relatively safe, but you have to watch out for pickpockets, as in any big city. At night, you should avoid certain parts of the city - especially Scampia, Rione Sanità, Centro Direzionale and Rione Traiano, but also the Quartieri Spagnoli. 

Bongiòrno, Napole: Check-in

The cliché of the wild drivers of southern Italy is confirmed - especially in and around Naples. So if you don't want to spend your weekend in the midst of a gaggle of honking Fiats or Alfa Romeos, hop on a plane.

From Vienna, you can travel to Naples in economy class from € 30; if you want elegance and comfort, you can take a seat in Business or can be upgraded to First Class. The airplane therefore carries travelers the fastest, in less than two hours, and safest to Campania; from above you can also enjoy the view of the rooftops of the metropolis and the quietly lying Vesuvius.

Taking a plane to Naples. © Shutterstock

Off to the city

Once you arrive at the airport, you are welcome to take a cab - but you should insist that the taximeter is turned on. The €5.00 bus can also be safely exchanged for a more comfortable shared cab - the drivers scurry around the entire airport site looking for travelers.

Sleep in Naples

Naples never sleeps - the streets are noisy and turbulent. That's why it's worth choosing quiet, comfortable accommodation: at the Grand Hotel Parker's, you'll bed down in luxurious 5-star elegance among marble and palm tree flair in Chiaia; the literal highlight is the gourmet restaurant George on the roof terrace.

Day 1

Morning: Explore Naples on foot

After leaving behind the tranquility of the accommodation, the charming old town of Naples beckons you to take long walks. You could get lost for hours in the maze of winding, narrow streets, between which clotheslines blow lazily in the wind. Time is short, however, so it's worth seeking out Spaccanapoli: one of the most famous streets that divides the city in two. 

Everywhere, charming little alleys lure you into the city's labyrinth. © Sam van Bussel

Along the many streets that make up Spaccanapoli, centuries-old culture and genuine Italian charm gather. Sights, markets and small stores of the locals are virtually on the roadside. But what you should not miss: 

Mangiare: Pizza Napoletana 

At lunchtime, you are welcome to stay in the city center and fortify yourself with a pizza Napolitana. The most famous pizzeria is undoubtedly L'Antica Pizzeria de Michele, where Julia Roberts sat in Eat Pray Love and enjoyed a tricolore with red tomato sauce, white mozzarella and green basil.

However, the waiting times at Michele are enormous - and the pizza tradition in Naples is so great that you can also get really good classic pizzas with typically few toppings and very airy dough elsewhere. Tip: The Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo in Via dei Tribunali.

Afternoon: Sant' Elmo

After lunch, the city streets become quiet. It's time for the riposo! The hours after lunch are best used to take the funicolare to the highest point above Naples and visit Castel Sant' Elmo. And after that? It's high time for an Italian espresso.

Oasis of calm in the turbulent city bustle: Castel Sant' Elmo. © Shutterstock

Still time? How about a short shopping tour - the Via Chiaia is lined with noble boutiques, the Via Toledo, between the old town and the Spanish quarter, is Naples' big shopping street for everything. If you are already here, you should definitely take a look at the imposing Galleria Principe di Napoli.

Tip: The southern Italian city is famous for its wild traffic, the traffic light color red seems rather a hesitant suggestion. Therefore: Watch out, no matter where you are walking - because even on the sidewalk sometimes children with mopeds rush past unsuspecting tourists. And above all: be self-confident, otherwise you'll never cross the street.

Evening: Dinner

Italy is the land of connoisseurs - and Naples is of course no exception. Gourmets will find a wide range of culinary offerings in the city, from trendy bistros and sushi stores to classic trattorias and haute cuisine. 

On every corner, a trattoria beckons with traditional Neapolitan cuisine. © Eva Elijas

It is a must to try everything related to seafood - which finds its way into the fishermen's nets just off the coast - and fresh mozzarella or burrata. You should also have tried the famous ragù! And because you are just a stone's throw away from Capri, the Caprese salad is our appetizer of choice.

The classic cuisine at Mimì alla Ferrovia or Trattoria Scugnizzi is very good. If you prefer more modern cuisine, Kukai Nibu offers sushi and Japanese cuisine.

Day 2

Morning and noon: volcanoes and ancient sites

Visiting Naples and not taking a look into the crater of the only active volcanoes of the European mainland? Hardly imaginable! That's why you set off early in the morning - either by car or on the Circumvesuviana and the Campania Express; both trains first take travelers to Pompeii.

From the parking lot, below left, walk up to the volcanic crater. © Shutterstock

There, the bus continues up the active volcano, passing fields that bear witness to the last of the eruption. At the top, after a short, but sweaty climb, you are rewarded with a great view. You should not expect too much from the crater itself - currently no lava is bubbling in it.

Tip: The pre-registration for the entrance to the Vesuvius National Park should definitely be made the day before, as there is no network coverage at the volcano itself. 

Afterwards, you explore ancient Pompeii, which was buried in 79 AD, with its impressive wide and high streets and chic villas that still reveal colorful frescoes. You should allow at least two hours for the exploration tour through the widely ramified excavation site.

Afternoon: Naples Underworld

From the buried city of Pompeii, we now move to the city under the city: Napoli sotterranea. The underworld of Naples extends for eighty kilometers through long corridors and large caves.

The underworlds in the tufa were partly built 5,000 years ago - today they show themselves as an impressive time capsule. Guided tours of Napoli Sotterranea are offered by various cultural associations, and the Galleria Borbonica clearly stands out from the crowd. 

Alternative afternoon: Island hopping

Volcanoes and the underworld sound a bit too adventurous? If you prefer island bliss instead, there are three jewels in the Gulf of Naples to choose from, each of which can be reached in about half an hour:

Capri: A jet-setter's hotspot since time immemorial, the island with its two iconic cliffs, the Faraglioni, also boasts wildly beautiful walks along the coast. 

Ischia: If you are looking for relaxation, you will find it here: Spread all over Ischia, hot springs bubble from the earth and sea floor. 

Procida: Procida with its colorful fishing villages promises peace and quiet from the tourist masses at last. A true insider tip among island hoppers!

Day 3 

Morning: Phlegraean Fields

Those who have a little more time on their hands today set out to see the legendary Campi Flegrei. Whether the "burning fields" are really a supervolcano is not yet known with certainty; the active fields, some 2 million years old, are impressive in any case. A tour leads to the crater Solfatara, the archaeological site Pozzuoli and to the Cave of the Sibyl of Cumae.

The Phlegraean Fields near Naples are a unique sight. © Shutterstock

Afternoon: Beach dreams 

We spend the rest of the day at the ocean, for example, at the Green Rocks Lido, the Lido Rocce Verdi. Here you can doze on the rocks in the sun or dare to jump into the emerald green water - the very brave may even swim into the cave. 

Alternative: Capodimonte

It's still too cold for a visit to the beach? Then Capodimonte beckons: In the middle of the Bosco di Capodimonte, a spacious, quiet park with a wonderful view over Naples, stands the Museo di Capodimonte. The palatial building exhibits works by Caravaggio and Titian, as well as locally made porcelain. Wow! 

Relax and enjoy the last hours in Naples at Capodimonte. © Shutterstock

Conclusion:

One thing is clear to travelers after a weekend in Campania's capital: anyone who comes to Naples will certainly not want to die reassured - but to return here again and again.

The best addresses in Naples

hotel

Romeo Hotel
Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45, 80133 Naples, Italy 
Tel.: +39 081 017 5001
Web: romeohotel.it 
Price from € 312,-/night for 2 persons incl. breakfast

Grand Hotel Parker's
C.so Vittorio Emanuele, 135, 80121 Naples, Italy
Tel.: +39 081 761 2474
Web: grandhotelparkers.it 
Price from € 221,-/night for 2 persons incl. breakfast

Restaurants

Gino e Toto Sorbillo
Via dei Tribunali 32, 80138 Naples, Italy
Tel.: +39 081 446643
Web: sorbillo.it 

Kukai Nibu
Via Carlo De Cesare, 52, 80132 Naples, Italy
Tel.: +39 081 1957 1890
Web: ikirestaurants.com 

Mimì alla Ferrovia
Via Alfonso D'Aragona, 19, 80139 Naples, Italy
Tel.: +39 081 553 8525
Web: mimiallaferrovia.it 

Trattoria Enoteca Campagnola
Via dei Tribunali, 47, 80138 Naples, Italy
Tel: +81 459034

Don't Miss

Castel Sant' Elmo
Via Tito Angelini, 20/A, 80129 Naples, Italy
What? Fort overlooking the whole of Naples

Museo di Capodimonte
Via Miano, 2, 80131 Naples, Italy
What: Museum with park and view over Naples

Duomo di San Gennaro
Via Loffredi, 17, 80138 Naples, Italy
What? magnificent cathedral and miracle of blood of San Gennaro

Pompeii
Via Plinio, 26, 80045 Pompei, Italy
What? archaeological site

Vesuvius National Park
What? active volcano and hiking

Napoli Sotteranea
What? Naples' vast underworld

San Gaetano: napolisotterranea.org
from Gambrinus Bar: lanapolisotterranea.it  
Galleria Borbonica: galleriaborbonica.com

Galleria Principe di Napoli
What? Shopping
Via Ettore Bellini, 1, 80135 Naples, Italy

Beach:

Spiaggia della Gaiola
Discesa Gaiola, 14, 80123 Naples, Italy
Web: areamarinaprotettagaiola.it 

Lido Rocce Verdi
Via Posillipo, 68 mare, 80123 Naples, Italy
What? beach and emerald green water
Web: baiadellerocceverdi.it